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To Lafayette Nice, April 11, 1787
Your head, my dear friend, is full of Notable things; and being
better employed, therefore, I do not expect letters from you. I am
constantly roving about, to see what I have never seen before, and
shall never see again. In the great cities, I go to see what
travellers think alone worthy of being seen; but I make a job of it,
and generally gulp it all down in a day. On the other hand, I am
never satiated with rambling through the fields and farms, examining
the culture and cultivators, with a degree of curiosity which makes
some take me to be a fool, and others to be much wiser than I am. I
have been pleased to find among the people a less degree of physical
misery than I had expected. They are generally well clothed, and
have a plenty of food, not animal indeed, but vegetable, which is as
wholesome. Perhaps they are over worked, the excess of the rent
required by the landlord, obliging them to too many hours of labor in
order to produce that, and where-with to feed and clothe themselves.
The soil of Champagne and Burgundy I have found more universally good
than I had expected, and as I could not help making a comparison with
England, I found that comparison more unfavorable to the latter than
is generally admitted. The soil, the climate, and the productions
are superior to those of England, and the husbandry as good, except
in one point; that of manure. In England, long leases for twenty-one
years, or three lives, to wit, that of the farmer, his wife, and son,
renewed by the son as soon as he comes to the possession, for his own
life, his wife's and eldest child's, and so on, render the farms
there almost hereditary, make it worth the farmer's while to manure
the lands highly, and give the landlord an opportunity of
occasionally making his rent keep pace with the improved state of the
lands. Here the leases are either during pleasure, or for three,
six, or nine years, which does not give the farmer time to repay
himself for the expensive operation of well manuring, and therefore,
he manures ill, or not at all. I suppose, that could the practice of
leasing for three lives be introduced in the whole kingdom, it would,
within the term of your life, increase agricultural productions fifty
per cent; or were any one proprietor to do it with his own lands, it
would increase his rents fifty per cent, in the course of twenty-five
years. But I am told the laws do not permit it. The laws then, in
this particular, are unwise and unjust, and ought to give that
permission. In the southern provinces, where the soil is poor, the
climate hot and dry, and there are few animals, they would learn the
art, found so precious in England, of making vegetable manure, and
thus improving these provinces in the article in which nature has
been least kind to them. Indeed, these provinces afford a singular
spectacle. Calculating on the poverty of their soil, and their
climate by its latitude only, they should have been the poorest in
France. On the contrary, they are the richest, from one fortuitous
circumstance. Spurs or ramifications of high mountains, making down
from the Alps, and as it were, reticulating these provinces, give to
the vallies the protection of a particular inclosure to each, and the
benefit of a general stagnation of the northern winds produced by the
whole of them, and thus countervail the advantage of several degrees
of latitude. From the first olive fields of Pierrelatte, to the
orangeries of Hieres, has been continued rapture to me. I have often
wished for you. I think you have not made this journey. It is a
pleasure you have to come, and an improvement to be added to the many
you have already made. It will be a great comfort to you, to know,
from your own inspection, the condition of all the provinces of your
own country, and it will be interesting to them at some future day,
to be known to you. This is, perhaps, the only moment of your life
in which you can acquire that knowledge. And to do it most
effectually, you must be absolutely incognito, you must ferret the
people out of their hovels as I have done, look into their kettles,
eat their bread, loll on their beds under pretence of resting
yourself, but in fact to find if they are soft. You will feel a
sublime pleasure in the course of this investigation, and a sublimer
one hereafter, when you shall be able to apply your knowledge to the
softening of their beds, or the throwing a morsel of meat into their
kettle of vegetables.
You will not wonder at the subjects of my letter: they are the
only ones which have been presented to my mind for some time past;
and the waters must always be what are the fountains from which they
flow. According to this, indeed, I should have intermixed, from
beginning to end, warm expressions of friendship to you. But,
according to the ideas of our country, we do not permit ourselves to
speak even truths, when they may have the air of flattery. I content
myself, therefore, with saying once for all, that I love you, your
wife and children. Tell them so, and adieu.
Yours affectionately,
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