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A Short History of the
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Here is the story of Taupo and the Spa, and how they feature in our history. The borough we know as 'Taupo' was once called 'Tapuaeharuru' (place of echoing footsteps), and was officially so-called by the Armed Constabulary. All that part of the central North Island of which Taupo is the heart, was called 'Taupo nui a Tia', ie 'the great cloak of Tia', so-named by one of the early explorers, the great Arawa chief Tia, after a dark mark on a cliff (which may still be seen) resembling a rain cloak. The area is still called 'Taupo nui a Tia' bv the Maori people to this day. The Pakeha settlers who followed the Constabulary adopted 'Taupo' probably because it was the easier to pronounce. Early in the course of, the New Zealand Wars of the 1860's Government agents realised that Taupo was an important strategic area, standing as it did in the centre of the North Island at the junction of tracks connecting the main centres of unrest. In 1869 they decided to act. After the abortive Waikaremoana expedition against Te Kooti the same year the Armed Constabulary taking part were transferred to Napier. From there they marched to Taupo, leaving detachments on the way to establish fortified posts for support and to secure their lines of communication. They constructed redoubts along the route of the present Napier-Taupo road at Titiokura, Te Haroto, Tarawera, Runanga, Pahautea, Opepe and Taupo. The men themselves carried out all the construction work, eg erection of timber stockades, store-rooms, barracks, etc. They also assisted in forming the first roads-connecting the posts, roads which later enabled the pioneers to exploit the tourist attractions of the Lake and surrounding country. At the same time they helped erect the first telegraph line, and provided its first operators and maintenance men. The Armed Constabulary advance party which arrived in Taupo in 1869 camped at a pa occupied by friendly Maori on the west bank of the Waikato River near its outlet from the lake. However, relations became strained following an incident in which a Constable is alleged to have 'had one over the eight', and to have caused a fire. The AC then moved to the opposite side of the river. In a valley where the Spa Hotel now stands, called Otumaheke by the Maori and Lofley's Glen by the AC, the latter set up a depot. Edward Lofley was their Quartermaster, an ex-Navy man, a survivor from the crew of HMS Orpheus wrecked on the Manukau bar in 1863. They selected the site because by fencing off one end of the valley they could conveniently corral the horses, and the thermal activity provided an ample supply of hot water. Carpenters in the Force erected a number of buildings, some of which are still in use as part of the hotel complex. After Te Kooti's so-called massacre of the Bay of Plenty Cavalry detachment at Opepe on 7 June 1869, the AC, realising they could easily be ambushed in Lofley's Glen, moved into Taupo. There they built a redoubt the remains of which with its original magazine of pumice blocks, may still be seen near the Police Station. Lofley, however, remained at the depot, and must have secured his release from the Constabulary around 1870. As Quartermaster he had permission to sell liquor to the troops, and continued to sell it to civilians as well on the strength of a canteen licence which apparently satisfied authority in those days. Thus he can be said to have been Taupo's first publican although he had only squatter's rights. Lofley commenced to develop the Glen into a spa by erecting accommodation and bathing sheds for folk who sought to relieve their aches and pains in the hot mineral waters which abounded, as well as from the stronger waters he purveyed in the bar. He must have been a persuasive type for when Mr William Fox visited the establishment after becoming Premier, Lofley obtained from him the right to the use of land enough to permit expansion of his facilities. Unhappily at this point everything in the garden ceased to be lovely. As every businessman knows, expansion costs money, so probably for this reason Lofley raised the price of beer from threepence (3c) per jug (!) to fourpence. Naturally upset, the Constables quickly informed him they would buy their beer elsewhere - for by this time another pub had opened. Lofley countered by threatening to deny them the use of his bathing facilities, whereupon in true Kiwi fashion the AC told him what he could do with his baths - and forthwith proceeded to organise their own. Later opened to the public they became known as the 'AC Baths'. At the site they chose, now called 'The Armed Constabulary Park', are situated the modern AC Baths, an extensive Lido-like complex. In the foyer of the main building may be seen the plaque presented by our Association in 1970; it features both the AC and the RNZA cap badges, and reads: 'This tablet commemorates those members of the Armed Constabulary who fell during the wars of 1867-1872 and was erected in their memory by the New Zealand Permanent Force Old Comrades Association in 1970'. When visiting Taupo you should make a point of visiting the Park. In 1871 or 1872 Joseph Joshua took over Lofley's establishment, and it was he who gave the Spa Hotel its present title. He converted the Orderly Room into a kitchen on to which he built an annexe for use as a dining room. The block once known as '26, 27, and 281 he made his own quarters to which he attached the first real bar. Joshua also improved the bathing facilities. In 1886 he purchased a beautiful Maori meeting house called 'Tiki o te Tamamutu'. It was the second house of the name carved for the Oruanui chief Tamamutu, the carvinas for the first havinq been buried with his wife after her death. Probably carved between 1850 and 1880, it is believed to be the last carved bv the famous Arawa master-craftsman Wero, and one of the two examples of his art still in New Zealand, the other beinq at the Otara Marae, Rotoiti. It is the only privately-owned meeting house in the country, is protected by Act of Parliament, and forty years ago was valued at 10,000 pounds. Tamamutu sold it to Joshua for 150 pounds after most of his people had moved to Taupo. When first purchased the house was in pieces, Wero having died before completing it. When Joshua erected it on its present site he incorporated a quantity of new timber in its construction, but the main beams, the uprights, and all the carvings are originals. The top beam or ridgepole is unique; it has been adzed from a single piece of timber, the carving in the centre being part of the beam itself. Fortunately the carvings have been well-maintained over the years; we are told they were never painted but originally treated with a mixture of haematite and pigeon fat. In more recent times they have been treated with suitable oil to ensure their preservation. Timber for the sarking and walls was pit-sawn in Taupo, and delivered to the Spa for 10 shillings ($l) a hundred 'super' feet, ie the equivalent of 100 running feet (30 metres) of 12-in x 1-in (300 x 25 mm) boards. So you can get some idea of how much the poor fellow at the bottom of the pit got! The carved figures forming the uprights round the walls are said to depict important members of the Tuwharetoa tribe each of whom will he seen to differ in moko and other bodily characteristics. In the place of honour at the far end of the meeting house facing the entrance is seated the first Te Heu Heu with one eye open and one shut, signifying that wherever he was or whatever he was doing, he always kept one eye on the tribe. Joshua used the meeting house as a dining room, and it continued to be so used until 1935 when the owner, then Mr T.A. Heath, erected a new dining room in its present position behind the meeting house. The latter he converted into a lounge, action which met with the approval of local Maori chiefs and elders who were most unhappy at the house being used as an eating place. It seems they put a tapu on the house, for it had proved very difficult to get Maori women to work as waitresses. After Mr Heath's action the hiring of staff presented no problems. Adjoining the lounge is the house bar in which hangs a large portrait of Trooper F.J. Healey who served in the AC in Taupo, and later in the N.Z. Permanent Force and the Police. Under it hangs one of his son, Captain R.J. Healey, MBE, our oldest member. Both portraits were presented by the Association, and were much appreciated by the management who would appreciate others of historical interest pertaining to the area. This chapter would not be complete without a further word on Opepe, one of the fortified posts set up on the Napier-Taupo road 18 km from Taupo, of which mention has already been made in this history. When Taupo was first occupied by the AC it was a subsidiary of Opepe which developed into a settlement of around 600 persons grouped about the Constabulary stockade. However, Taupo eventually became the principal station, and when disbandment of the AC Force began in 1884 most of the buildings at Opepe were sold, the occupants moved on, and the bush took over. Three of the buildings erected by the AC became the old Rangitaiki Hotel before it became a tavern and moved to its present position five kilometres closer to Napier. Opepe is notable for its connection with our Association. Bill Stott, one of our members, while researching family history, found that his grandfather, Louis Stott, served in the AC there in the 1870's. In 1955 our Auckland Rep 'discovered' another old Opepe hand, William Strew, living in Howick aged 100 years. Needless to say we made him a Life Member on the spot! Strew is one of the AC men recorded as having built the Magistrate's Court in Taupo in the 1870's. It is still in use as a hall, and stands behind the Police Station, a monument to one of the most versatile bodies of men ever to serve this country. Unfortunately records of the early days and of men of the Force who endured them are scarce. Mr J.W. Birnie, one-time proprietor of the Spa and intensely interested in its history told me of a visit he once made to the Taupo Police Station in the backyard of which a pile of old AC records burned merrily. According to the Constable feeding the flames a 'new broom' had ordered him 'to get rid of all this bloody rubbish'. People who are interested in their countr4s history are said to be mature; conversely, people who are not interested said to be immature. It is a pity the latter appear to be in a majority in New Zealand where military history is concerned. By making the Spa our reunion headquarters we are reminded of our past links with the Force from which came the foundation members of the Royal New Zealand Artillery. The hotel provides excellent fare, accommodation at a very reasonable tariff - and free access to the thermal waters Lofley once denied the AC. Also, we appreciate it because it is one of the few hotels with character still trading. We look forward to meeting you there - before we grow too old! .../The Association 1986 - 1996 previous | index | next | History index | Home | ||