An Unfortunate Region - Italy travelguide

Stelvio pass, Croce Monte Scale, Forte Venini, Mt. San Mateo, Tonale Pass, Forte Strino, Museo Storico delle Truppe Alpine, Mausoleum of Cesare Battisti, Caproni Air Museum, Museo della Guerra, Asiago plateau, Mt. Kaberlaba, Museum 'Collezione Giancarlo Rovini', Mt. Zovetto, Forte Interrotto, Mt. Pasubio, Mt. Marmolada, Pordoi Pass, Mt. Lagazoui, Valparola Pass, Pocol Sacari Militari, Mt. Piano, Mauthen Museum 1915-18, Mt. Pal Piccolo, Mt. San Michele, Sacrari Militari Redipuglia, Sacrari Militari di Montello, Giavera British Cemetery.

Introduction
Having spend more than a decade on the traveling the Western Front we found time to expand our horizon. The choice fell on Italy and it was decided that the 2001 summer holiday would be spent there. As with the Vosges trip we found that information in English is scarce. It is hoped that this English description of our trip can help future visitors. Please note that we are not, and do not claim to be, experts on this front. We just spent 15 days there (which is much too short to visit all interesting sites) and if anything this article is only an outlet for 50 of the 900 photographs one of us took. We invite Italian buffs to point out any error (kindly please), which we will then gladly correct.

It must be said that the information situation is changing rapidly for the Italian front. Recently the first Battleground Europe series book on the Italian front has appeared: MacKay, F. BATTLEGROUND EUROPE (ITALY): ASIAGO. 2001, Leo Cooper. It's likely more will follow. Also the adverts for the major WW1 traveling companies are beginning to include Italy in their tours on offer.

The tour
The tour starts on the Swiss / Italian / Austrian border (Stelvio pass) in the West and goes eastwards towards the Italian / Slovanian border in the East. You will travel from the Stelvio Pass in the west to Trieste in the East, following the 1915-1918 front line. We did it in 15 days, but it is all very weather dependent and how many mountains you want to (or can) really visit. A walk up and down each of the mentioned mountains can take a full day if you like. The tour can be followed on this map (follow link). We stayed in:

But it naturally all depends on getting a hotel you like, and on what you want to see.

Travel advice
Normally we don't bother with this. Taking sun cream and good walking shoes along as is often suggested in books dealing with trips to France almost speaks for itself. There are however some things particular to walking along a mountain front that should be pointed out. First of all you will need a good, spacious backpack. The weather is highly changeable in the mountains. It has happened to us that we left our hotel in sunny 25°C weather and 4 hours later we were standing in an Austrian trench 3000 meters high in half a meter of snow. To be prepared for this you will need 'to dress as an onion' as the Italians say. Use many layers of clothing which you can put on or off as needed. Hence the backpack. Also take 1 liter water / person with you. Some of the walks described take 7-8 hours and if the sun is shining you will need the water! A walking stick is advised. A real danger in the mountains is being caught by a thunderstorm. Each year people die from being hit by lightning. If you happen to get caught on a mountain slope discard all your equipment (backpack) and anything metal. Position yourself some distance from these items, and squad down making yourself as little as possible. The trips described are in former frontline areas and these sometimes contain caves and dugouts. You can shelter deep in these caves, leaving your equipment at the entrance.

Take good maps. For getting to certain areas the Michelin #429 Italy (north east), 1: 400.000 is excellent as it contains the whole area visited. Slightly better are the Touring Club Italiano maps (1:200.000), but you will need several of these to cover the area visited. Once you are in the general area for your visit you will need the Kompass (1:50.000) series maps like #101 Rovereto - Monte Pasubio, #78 Altopiano dei Sette Comuni (Asiago) and #55 Cortina d' Ampezzo which are sold locally at gas stations and the like. There is also a Kompass 1:25.000 series.

A very important question you will have to answer is 'when to go?' We went half June and found that some passes in the mountains were still closed because of snow. This can still be the case in July for the Ortlers and Marmolada. But when you go in August you will be traveling together with millions of Italians on their summer holiday... Places that will be deserted with plenty of hotel rooms in June or July will be swamped and filled to the brim in August, with no way of you getting a hotel room if you haven't got a reservation. The choice is yours. Although we leave answering the question gladly to you, we advice you to go in early July.

Driving in the mountains was then, and is now, not without it's hazards.
Go prepared. Although the mountains offer unsurpassed views, from a
driving point of view we re-found our appreciation for the flatness of
Holland and the British sector in Belgium and France.
Picture comes from the book:
Kozlovic, A. STORIA FOTOGRAFICA DELLA GRANDE GUERRA.
1986, Gino Rossato Editore.

Before we start...
Please read the article by Francesco Davini: The Northwestern Austro-Italian Alpine front: A General Overview (follow link). It will give you a good idea of the difficulties presented to the soldiers who were expected to fight in the Italian mountains.
Road numbers were valid in 2001.
The mentioned opening hours of museums were valid in 2001 for the months June and July.
In this article we will speak of Austro-Hungary or sometimes only Austria. The Austro-Hungarian army includes however far more then the names implies. It included people from 19 nationalities, the mobilization notices for example were printed in 15 languages. By not mentioning these it is not our intent to forget their sacrifice.
On this website we try to follow the rule 'credit is given where credit is due'. This article would not have been possible without the books mentioned in the bookshelf (follow link). But particularly we have to mention:

If you can read German it is suggested you buy the four firsts mentioned books. Well worth their price. They can be bought in the shops at Little Lagazuoi.

The Italian War in general
Italy formed together with Germany and Austro-Hungary the Triple Alliance. The alliance only stipulated that these countries would help each other in case of one being attacked, and Italy took the view that Germany and Austro-Hungary were not attacked as the initial assault was done by them. So Italy stayed neutral. The bid to win Italy over was won by the Allies who could promise Italy what it wanted: the Austrian province of Sud-Tirol. On May 23rd 1915 Italy declared war on Austria. Austria's defense along the border with Italy was very weak. Most Austrian units fought in the East against Russia and Serbia. The troops that did guard the border where all of questionable quality. Austria also had approximately 30.000 Standschützen “the last on offer” (the young and the old) for their fight against Italy. But these troops did have the advantage that they know the mountain terrain they were going to fight in. Germany send troops to Austria to help in the defense just before the outbreak of the war, but these are not real Alpine troops. Austria prepared for an extensive withdraw in general, but the Italian advance turned out the be cautious and slow. Soon the Austrians are able to strike back. A more or less stable front develops (see the map) with both sides trying to break through the defense of the enemy. May 1916 saw a great Austro-Hungarian offensive called 'The Punishment Expedition' (Strafexpedition). Although they conquered terrain in the Val Sugana (Asiago / Pasubio) the attack broke down. In October 1917 the Austro-Hungarians with considerable help from the Germans succeed in breaking the Italian lines at Isonzo. This opportunity was squandered after an unprecedented advance which also forced the Italians to abandon most of their mountain positions up north. Early 1918 the Austro-Hungarians launch an offensive on the Asiago plateau and the crossing of the river Piave. It will turn out to be the last Austro-Hungarian offensive and it fails. October 1918 saw a combined Italian, British and French crossing of the Piave river. The initiative from then on was in Allied hands with the Austro-Hungarians surrendering on November 4th, 1918.

Base camp #1: Bórmio. Day 1-3
One of the bigger places in the Ortler mountains is Bórmio. It should make a good base for exploring the area. Personally we stayed in our friend Francesco Davini's holiday home in S. Caterina Valfurva. He was our introduction to Italian hospitality. On our travels we have never encountered so much hospitality as we would during this trip. Our warm thanks to Francesco and his family for putting up with us and for introducing us to other Great War enthusiasts!

Box with Italian Machine Gun (Fiat 14) box magazines (emptied)
and a Ice pick. Found by locals in the Ortler mountains.
Because of the snow objects are usually much better
preserved than on the Western Front.

On Day 1 Italy is entered through the Austrian - Italian Stelvio pass (Stilfser Joch) on the S38 . If this is closed (as was the case with us) you can perhaps enter through the Swiss - Italian Umbrail Pass (unnamed road forking from the S28 at S. Maria, Switzerland). The Umbrail Pass as a nice explanation sign (Italian / German) about the Great War there.

The war here was mainly a fight against the elements. Not much fighting took place because these places are too close to the (Neutral) Swiss border. Both Austrians and Italians being afraid to lob a shell in Switzerland which would (and on some occasions did) generate a political incident.

Umbrail Pass. Not much to see except the road and snow.
Note: This photograph is taken June 15th!

At the Stelvio Pass you can find the Museo Storico Carlo Donegani (opening hours unknown: tel. 0342.528.467). It mostly contains information about the Stelvio Pass during the Great War and items found on the former battlefield. At the time of writing (2001) the information available was in Italian and German. From the museum it's a short walk up to what was the location of The Swiss Hotel.

There was a Swiss hotel there during the war and it was a well known site for soldiers fighting there. The original hotel was destroyed by fire during the war. The current building is a Rifugio that has seen better times too, but in 2001 they were restoring it. Reason for visiting is the Austrian Trench just in front of the Hotel. It was called the 'Life Insurance Trench' because it was so close to the Swiss border that the Italians dared not to shell it. Near the hotel is also the triple border: Austria - Switzerland - Italy. Note the border markers. On your way up you will pass a roofless bunker.

From the Swiss hotel location you will have a great view over the Stelvio Pass and the road (S38) you will have to take towards Bórmio.

Along the road, high up you can see dark holes in the mountains. These are Italian second line fortifications / dugouts. Along the S38 at Malga Stelvio you will pass (on your left) a memorial arch containing the names of the soldiers who used to be buried in the cemetery just ahead on your right. Almost all cemeteries in Italy have been cleared during the 1930's and the remains being collected in large ossuaries. The empty cemeteries have been left as they were in most cases. The house opposite the Memorial Arch also contains memorials to 1915-1918. At Bagni is the Grand Bagni Nuovi Hotel. This used to be Italian Headquarters for the Stelvio sector. Who said that only the British General Staff were chateau dwelling species?

On day 2 take the N301 from Bórmio towards Livigno. After approx. 2 km at Premadio (which has a fine War Memorial complete with mortars) take the road left towards Tri di Fraele / lake di Cancano. This can be a really bad road after rain! It has no hard surface. Several km. and heart-stops later (again our thanks to Francesco, this time for putting his car through this!) you will see the medieval tower of Fraele. Park here. This region was the Italian 2nd or 3rd line defense. If you walk along the road you will come up a sign pointing and saying Croce Monte Scale. It is possible to walk up this mountain on a path made during the war. It was used to haul artillery op the mountain. These pieces fired on the Stelvio Pass and came from Forte Venini, which we will visit later. It was found that the ranges on these guns were useless. They were calibrated at sea level, but at 2,000 meters high they were found to be firing much further. The walk will take approx. 3-4 hours.

During our visit the path up the mountain was in bad state due to rain and landslides. On top of the mountain are artillery positions and a barrack. Honesty makes us admit we stopped just short of the top....

After the walk you can drive further along the road you came from towards the lakes dams and power stations just ahead. There is a bar there for the needed refreshments. The dams are a nice engineering feat, although not related to The Great War. Head back the way you came to Premadio and turn right. After 1 km turn left towards Oga. In Oga follow the signs towards Forte di Oga. Forte Venini is locally signposted as Forte di Oga.

The fort can be visited with a guide. When we were there only Italian speaking guides were present. The fort itself looks well maintained. There are only a few items on display, but on the positive side you can handle the rifles if you ask. On top of the fort the gun cupolas have been recreated. A binocular allows you to see the barrack you have visited that morning.

During our visit in June 2001 there was to much snow on the Ortlers to do any real battlefields walks there. Monte San Matteo (3678 m) and Monte Gavia are most interesting places, as you have read in Francesco Davini's article The Northwestern Austro-Italian Alpine front: A General Overview (follow link) . To get there take the Bórmio - S. Caterina Valfurva road (S300) and at S. Caterina the Passo di Gavia road. Stop at the Rifugio Arnaldo Berni. Behind the rifugio is Monte Gavia, in front the San Matteo. The striking memorial is to Captain Berni who lost his life on the San Matteo and who's body was never found. If weather permits you should stay longer that the 2 days we spent in this region.

Memorial to Captain Arnaldo Berni, NCO's and Other Ranks
of the 307th Comp., Battalion 'M. Ortler', 5th Regiment Alpini.

Captain Arnaldo Berni.
This photograph hangs in the rifugio
which bares his name.

Day 3. If the passo di Gavia is open you can follow it to Ponte di Legno and turn right onto the S42 towards Temù. In the Town Hall of Temù (open from 17:30 till 19:30!) is the Museo della Guerre Bianca. During our visit the pass was still closed and we had to make a considerable detour on the S38 Bórmio - Tirano road, then the S39 Tirano - Edolo road. At Edolo take the S42 towards Ponte di Legno. At Temù follow (or turn around if you came from the Gavia Pass) the S42 towards Ponte di Legno and follow the road towards the Tonale Pass. Here is an interesting Ossuary (follow link). The fighting took place in the mountains around you and there must be traces left. We did not have time to explore though. Continue towards Vermiglio. You Just before Vermiglio, in a bend in the road on your left is Forte Strino (9:30-12:30 & 14:30-18:30). There is a very small parking near the entrance and a little further there is a parking on your right. Visiting the fort is highly recommended.

Forte Strino, Vermiglio.
Looking towards the Adamello-Presanella glaciers.
Scene of heavy fighting during the War.

The fort was built in 1860 and it's one of thirty forts built by the Austro-Hungarians along what was then the border with Italy. It is clear the fort is build to guard and if needed block the road. The damage visible isn't the result of war, but the interwar depression. The fort was partly demolished to salvage materials. The fort houses a small but very nice museum with good uniform displays. There is a movie (Italian) that shows the difficulty of the mountain front. In the courtyard of the fort there is a 1998 memorial that commemorates in German and Italian all fallen mountain troops (Kaiserschützen and Alpini).

We followed the S42 towards Cles and there followed the signs towards the A22 motorway and from there towards our Base camp #2: Riva del Garda.

Base camp #2: Riva del Garda, day 4-7.
As can be seen below we used the tourist town of Riva del Garda also for our base to visit Asiago. This means a 1½ hrs. drive one way. Perhaps too much for some people, but we were bound to Riva and we don't mind leaving a hotel at 7:00 and returning at 22:00. As can be seen on the map Riva was a frontline town during the war. Not much reminds of that today. It's a very touristy kind of place, but very nice. The restaurants near the harbor are a good place to drink a beer from a 1 liter glass after a mountain walk!

If you make it a packed day (day 4) you can visit the three museums at Trento and Rovereto in one day.
At Trento is the Museo Storico delle Truppe Alpine (9:00 - 13:00 & 13:30-17:00). It is located near the round Mausoleum of Cesare Battisti. the memorial can be seen from the city center, which itself is worth a visit. We walked to it, but you can also drive to it.

Cesare Battisti is a well know Italian national hero. He was at one time a member of Austrian parliament. He believed Sud-Tirol should be a part of Italy instead of Austria. When war broke out he enlisted in the Italian army. He was captured (1916) by the Austrians and recognized. He was executed as a traitor. From the memorial it's a short signposted walk to the Alpini museum.

The second museum is on Trento Airfield: the Caproni Air Museum (9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Mondays). This museum with Caproni aircraft has some (pre) WW1 aircraft on display like the Caproni Britol (1912), the CA6 (1911) and CA9. There is also an original Fokker D.VIII (1918) frame on display. The museum claims it is the only original left. An other interesting aircraft is an Ancaldo S.V.A. 5 which bombed Vienna on August 9th, 1918.

In the Castle of Rovereto is the Museo della Guerra (8:30-18:30, closed Mondays). It is by far the best of the three museums mentioned for this day. And the worst to find! Good luck. Signs are present from some directions and sometimes not. Keep your eye out for the castle. Outside is a Skoda 305mm mortar, and inside a vast collection of uniforms and hardware.

We spent the following two days (days 5 &6) around on the Asiago plateau or Altopiano dei setti Comuni or Plateau of the Seven Municipalities (there are 8, but what the heck) with Francesco Boaria as friend and knowledgeable guide. Again we have to thank this friend for his shown friendship, driving us around, pleasant conversations, and introducing us to other very interesting Great War enthusiasts. Two days are not much, we realize that. It is highly recommended to buy the previous mentioned book by F. MacKay: BATTLEGROUND EUROPE (ITALY): ASIAGO. It will give a good insight in the British involvement in this sector and good tour descriptions. In Asiago you can buy the mentioned Kompass (1:50.000) series map #78 Altopiano dei Sette Comuni (Asiago). An other map you can buy is ALTOPIANO DI ASIAGO - 7 COMUNI - I LUOGHI DELLA GRANDE GUERRA 1915-1918. It is a 1:30.000 map map with the approximate location of the lines at different dates overprinted on it. The map can be bought from the tourist office in Asiago. Personally though we found the Kompass map easier to use.

From Riva there are two recommended ways of getting to Asiago. Go to Rovereto and follow the S12 to Trento. Just after Castel Pietra take the S350 on your right. Follow the signs (S349) towards Asiago. Slightly longer, but perhaps faster and certainly more interesting is taking the S12 to Trento and there the S47 towards Levico. This part is a fast trip over good roads in the Val Sugana. This is approximately where the 1914 Austrian-Italian border was. At Levico take the unnumbered road on your right (just before the 2nd fly-over) towards Alb. M. Rovere. This is a road made by the Austro-Hungarian army for supplying their troops on the Asiago plateau. At some places the road is only as wide as one car and cut through rock. The road is dual way and when there is oncoming traffic (as was the case on our trip) you're presented with an interesting challenge! The road ends on the S349 which you follow towards Asiago. In Asiago follow the signs for the Asiago Ossuary (follow link).

The Austro-Hungarians launched a major offensive in May 1916 called 'Strafexpedition' (Punishment Expedition). The idea was to sweep down from the mountains, take the Asiago plateau and head on towards Vicenza and beyond. The attacked was halted on the Asiago plateau and from then on the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops faced each other in entrenched positions along the plateau. As a result of the 12th Isonzo Battle (October 1917) the French and British came to the aid of the Italians (see bottom of this article) and were stationed on the Asiago plateau. The Austro-Hungarians made a final bid to win the war in April 1918 by trying to cross the Piave river and by heading south via the Asiago plateau and thus break the Allies in a pincer movement. It was this attack in which the British were involved and which resulted in 5 CWGC cemeteries on the plateau which you can visit in a tour using your Kompass #78 map. The descriptions are probably not accurate enough to find your way. There are no road numbers and there are many small roads. We promise you that you will get lost if you do not use your Kompass map and (or) Francis MacKay's book! The description below is in the form of one trip. When day 1 is done, break off and come back to where you left off on day 2.

From Asiago take the S349 towards Canove di Roana. There is a museum there in the old railway station.

From Canove follow the road and turn left towards 'Zona Artigianale' and Coda. Drive though Coda and look in the field on your left. There should be a small cluster of trees there with a memorial. Park your car and walk to it. People sometimes think that the warnings on our debris page about explosives are exaggerated. Some of the items in our news section should have convinced them otherwise. And then there is this memorial. On February 23rd, 1974 two Great War enthusiasts discovered an ammunition dump here, and they started to dig it out. Some local inhabitants came to have a look at these digging blokes. A grenade exploded and seven people were killed.

Continue and take the first road right. You are now driving up Monte Kaberlaba, A British held position in April 1918 when the Austro-Hungarians attacked in what would turn out to be their final bid. Continue on the road till it ends at the restaurant. Park there and continue on foot op the mountain and towards the tree-line. Using Francis MacKay's book it should be possible to find the British frontline trench on Monte Kaberlaba. We spent some time exploring the deep trenches and dugouts.

Get back to Canove and turn left onto the S349 towards Fondi and head for Chiesa. In the former elementary school of Tresché-Conca you will find the excellent Museum 'Collezione Giancarlo Rovini'. Francesco Boaria introduced us to Giancarlo where we again experienced that Italian friendliness.

Entrance to the amazing battlefield-finds collection
'Collezione Giancarlo Rovini'.
It is amazing what a private person with love and
knowledge about a subject can achieve.

Most items are battlefield finds by Giancarlo and his family, and a group of enthusiasts who call themselves 'The friends of the Rovini Collection'. Unfortunately Giancarlo only speaks Italian. There are most extensive and complete (or nearly complete) series of different shells and grenades.

Display of different early 'hairbrush' grenades.
Museum 'Collezione Giancarlo Rovini'.
The museum contains extensive series of grenade types.

Turn back and take a left turn, follow the road and then turn right up Monte Zovetto (1232 m). In the fields in front of the Diary Farm (Casara) which is in the bend of the road are some excellent Italian shelters and Observation Posts built in the rock. They are second line defenses from after the Austrian Strafexpedition.

The artillery positions are easy recognizable and so are the trenches. British gunners also used these positions and left reminders of their presence.

British graffiti. It reads:
(center)
181
Build on 29/6/18
The Mbs C.H. Marshall, MM
J. White, o Kirkcaldy
H. Cooke, o Bristol
These are the wee chaps
(left)
here today
and off tomorrow
(top)
C.H.M. J.W.
(right)
its all in the
guns
(bottom)
H.C. It's no bad place

I am afraid we gave the farmer something to talk about over dinner: two crazy Dutchmen and their Italian friend asking directions and mudding along in his cow-dung filled field looking for British graffiti...

Turn back and follow this road to Granezza British Cemetery (follow link). There is a British memorial to Lt. Col. Knox on your right when you stand on the road and face the path to the cemetery.

There are several forts around Asiago. A nice example (ruin) to visit on your way back to Riva is Forte Interrotto (1392 m). Take the S349 from Asiago or Canove in the direction of Trento. Turn right towards Valle and then almost immediately the first left. Follow this road up Monte Interrotto.

The fort was built in 1883-1885 by the Italians. It was captured by the Austro-Hungarians in their 1916 Strafexpedition. As you can see it has superb views over the Asiago plateau and it was used as artillery observation post and headquarters for for an Austrian brigade. The Italians shelled it on a regular basis.

Day 7 (and our last day in Riva del Garda) is spent on the Monte Pasubio (2232 m). You will need Kompass map #101 (1:50.000) to get there. Leave early: this will be long day with lots of mountain walking. Go to Rovereto and there take the S46 in the direction of the Passo Pian delle Fugazze. There are two routes to Monte Pasubio. One is the Rifugio A. Papa way and the other the Rifugio Lancia way.

The Rif. A. Papa road (E5) will bring you up the mountain behind the Italian front. This road is closed to traffic however. There is a bus that drives once a day up the E5. The bus stop is at Pian delle Fugazze (big parking on you left, bus stop on the right) but times seems to be very irregular and changeable. Phoning them is recommended. We do not have the number for the bus, but the number for Rifugio Papa is 0445-630233. They should be able to tell you more about the bus timetable.

We didn't want to be bothered with the bus so we took the Rif. Lancia way. This will bring you up Monte Pasubio behind the Austro-Hungarian front. Take the S46 from Rovereto and after a few miles turn left towards Vanza and then to Boccaldo. follow the signs towards Monte Pazul. After a few miles turn right and follow the signs towards Rif Lancia. As said, you are now traveling towards Monte Pasubio through what was the Austro-Hungarian rear area. You will pass a former Austro-Hungarian cemetery from which the remains were removed in 1936. It was restored in 1988. There are also some memorials there. Further along is a parking. It is not possible to drive all the way up to Rif. Lancia, so park here and walk the rest. The flat valley in from the Rif. was dotted with Austro-Hungarian barracks, tents etc. during the war. Rubbish heaps from that period are still present. Follow the road towards the top.

Looking towards Monte Pasubio.
Below the valley that used to contain Austro-Hungarian
artillery positions, barracks and tents.

The top of the mountain consists of two plateaus. Early 1916 during the Austrian 'Strafexpedition' saw each side occupy one of the plateaus. A bloody fight ensued to occupy the enemy's position. At first with head on assaults, later with mine warfare. The Italian held plateau is 30 meters higher then the Austro-Hungarian, giving the Italians a tactical advantage.

The end destination coming in sight:
the Austro-Hungarian frontline on Monte Pasubio.

Pasubio was not only to become notorious for the mine warfare, but also because of the many avalanches that occurred on this mountain. In the winter of 1916/1917 an estimated 1000 soldiers lost their lives in numerous avalanches.

Our friend and guide Francesco Boaria
at the entrance of the 'Putzker Stollen'.
Not accessible when we were there due to snow.

The mountain is hollowed out with mine shafts and underground works to shelter troops.

In March 1918 the Austro-Hungarians detonate a 55,000 kg mine under the Italian plateau. It was the biggest mine of the entire war. 600 Italians are killed instantly, more are to die of the wounds received.

Italian plateau seen from the Austro-Hungarian
plateau. The ruble is not natural. It is the result of the
Austro-Hungarian mine of 55,000 kg. that blew part of
the mountain and Italian positions ski-high.
The rubble is the result.

Depending on the time you can either walk to the Italian plateau or go back. On your way back below the top on your right is a dugout entrance with some interesting wartime graffiti and art.

Entrance to Austro-Hungarian dugout with wartime
graffiti and art. The small obelisk on the right reads:
"2.1 K.J. (Kaiserjäger) 1 komp. 12 IV.-22 X 18 Oberl. Tralz"

Day 8 is spend as a rest day. Get on the A22 motorway and head for Bolzano. Bolzano is a nice town to visit on this rest day. Get back on the A22 and take the Chiusa exit and follow the S242 towards Ortisei. Ortisei will be the base for the next 3 days.

On day 9 take the S242 from Ortisei to the Passo di Sella (2528 m). From there you can see your next destination: Monte Marmolada (3342 m.).

Follow the S242 towards Canazei. At Canazei turn left onto the S641 towards the Fedaia Pass. Drive on to the Malga Ciapela where there is a cableway to the top. During our visit in June 2001 there was too much snow on the mountain to do any real walking there. The ski slope had just opened again. At Malga Ciapela take the cableway to the top. It is in 4 stages, station 4 being the top.

Station 3 (Station Serauta) contains the interesting Museo della Grande Guerra in Marmolata. It gets some points deducted though because photography is not allowed. At 2950 meters high this could well the the highest Great War museum in the world. Station Serauta is in the middle of the memorial zone. From here walks can be made to the old positions, if snow allows. The museums sells a three-language (It/Ger/Eng) book: MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR IN MARMOLADA which is well worth it's price.

Monte Marmolada. This ridge is the famous Forcella V.
The black dots are two cable cars coming from- and going to the top (station 4: Marmolada).

Weather permitting you can walk to the Punta Serauta where the Italians built a small fort during April 1916. The fort is in the form of several caves, connected by tunnels carved in the rock. At the entrance is a memorial with the inscription "Divided in War, United in Memory". The fort included observation posts, machine gun emplacements, cable-ways, a searchlight and a infirmary.

Forcella V. was an Austrian outpost close to the Serauta fort. The Italians finally captured the feature in September 1917. Forcella V's appearance was altered forever when the Austrians detonated a mine there on September 26th 1917. It killed 1 officer, 1 NCO and 13 soldiers. The officer (Lt. Rosso) belonged to the Alta Montagna 51 Fant., Most soldiers to 52nd Infantry Reg. Their bodies have never been recovered.

The Austrian main position was on, or rather in, the glacier. 300 troops lived there in an amazing underground ice city, cut in the glacier. The museum has an excellent model of it on display. In total 10 km of tunnels connected the different caves. On December 13th, 1916 the positions on Marmolada were hit by the biggest snow avalanche in history to that date. 300 Austrian soldiers died that day on the mountain.

Austrian gun firing from an ice cave. Monte Marmolada.
Picture comes from the book:
Langes, G. DIE FRONT IN FELS UND EIS – 1915-1918. 1972/2001, Athesia.
This book is a collection of first hand accounts (Lages himself was a veteran)
and thereby gives a good overview on the Italian mountain fighting.
Well worth it's price. And we are not saying that because we used this
picture without permission. The book is on sale at shops at Lagazuoi, see below.

As an outcome of the 12th battle of Isonzo the Italians had to abandon the Marmolada in November 1917.

On day 10 take the S242 (and the Kompass #55 Cortina d'Ampezzo map) from Ortisei to the Sella Pass. Drive on and take the N48 to the Pordoi Pass (2242 m.) with it's Military Ossuary. Follow the S48 to the Falzárego Pass (2105 m.) and our destination: Monte Lagazuoi. From the pass there is a cable way to the top of Piccolo Lagazuoi (Little Lagazuoi, 2752 m.). It is also possible to walk to the top. At the base of the cableway are several shops that sell a range of Italian and German books on the Great War. Good place to stock up. Note the Great War memorials there too. A 'must-buy' is the book THE GREAT WAR ON THE LITTLE LAGAZUOI. There is an Italian, German and English version on sale. Reading this book in one of the restaurants or bars before you head up the mountain is recommended.

Little Lagazuoi with the Rif. Lagazuoi on top.
There are walking paths to the top, but these are only
recommended for experienced mountain walkers.
This cliff is 'lousy' with dugouts and WW1 tunnels which lead to the top.

Lagazuoi was Austrian territory when the war broke out. Little Lagazuoi was attacked by the Italians in the night of October 18th -19th, 1915. They came half way up the Lagazuoi. Major Martini of the Alpine battalion 'Val Chisone' successfully cleared the ridge which is half way op the mountain of Austrian troops. Since then the ridge is called 'Cengia Martini'. Further Italians attacks were unsuccessful and they consolidated their position on the Cengia Martini. Since the base of the mountain at the Valparola Pass was in Austrian hands, as was the top behind the Cengia Martini, the confusing situation developed in where the Austrians held part of the bottom the mountain, the Italians the middle and the Austrians the top again. The Italians constructed a 500 meter long tunnel from the bottom of the mountain to their position on the Cengia Martini, and also constructed a cable-way for supplies. This cable-way could only be used during the night. On Cengia Martini wooden barracks were constructed and used for sleeping quarters, magazines etc.

Since normal attacks turned out to be useless, a mine-warfare developed. 5 mines have been fired, 4 Austrians and 1 Italian. An Austrian mine of 30,480 kg blew a 100.000 cubic meter piece of the Cengia Martini. The largest mine was the Italian with 32,664 kg of explosives. The mines changed the appearance of the mountain forever. Drilling tunnels in these rocks, for mines or for connecting caves, was a slow process. The Italians on average did 5-6 meters a day, the Austrians 1 meter a day.

If you walk from the cable-way station on top of the mountain in the direction of the Valparola Pass you will see the remains (trenches) of the Austrian Vonbank Stellung.

From Lagazuoi take the road towards the Valparola Pass (2192 m.). On your left you will see the Austrian fort Tre Sassi. During our visit in 2001 it was being restored and closed. It was built from 1897-1901. It was updated in 1911 and in 1914 it contained two 80 mm and two 60 mm cannons. In July 1915, shortly after the war had started, the fort was hit by Italian 210 and 260 mm shells. They penetrated the structure and basically ended the war for this fort. When viewed from the road the mountain behind the fort is the Sasso di Stria (2477 m). It was attacked by the Italians on several occasions. A daring attack was made by Lt. Fusetti on October 18th, 1915. He made it half way up the mountain, but communication problems and the lack of reinforcements caused the attack to fail. Fusetti was killed on the mountain. During the war the Austrians made several defensive positions on the Sasso di Stria including a tunnel (Goigingerstollen) starting from the fort and leading to and up the mountain. The tunnel can be visited today.

As with the other mountains visited the fighting here ended abruptly when the Italians had to fall back in November 1917 due to the Isonzo disaster in the south.

Follow the road till you see the sign 'Capela de Vera'. Park and walk to the former Austro-Hungarian cemetery of Valparola (follow link). When you walk back there is a memorial to 40 German soldiers when you turn right on the T junction. Walk back to your car and return to the Falzarego Pass. Continue on the N48 towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. At the Pocal Pass there is an Austro-Hungarian Ossuary (round structure). Continue towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. Just before Cortina follow the signs to Pocol Sacari Militari (follow link). Return to Ortisei the way you came.

On day 11 leave Ortisei early to the A22 motorway. It is advisable to phone your next hotel that you will arrive late. Take the direction of Bresanone. Take exit Bresanone Nord and take the S49 to Brunico and on towards Dobbiaco. At Dobbiaco take the S51 Carbonin (Schluderbach). On your left you can see your destination of today: Monte Piano (2324 m) which in Italian it is called Monte Piana. There are two ways to get there: the easy way and the Great War way. The easy way is following the S48 bis to Col S. Angelo and there take the road left to Paludetto and there take the road to Rif. Bosi. There is a museum there and from the Rif. you can walk to the top of Monte Piano. But the real buffs will take the following route: From Schluderbach take the S48 bis. After a few hundred meters you will see a parking on your left and a sign for pedestrians pointing and saying "6a Monte Piano". This is where the Austro-Hungarian made road to the top of Monte Piano starts. This walk will let you experience what the soldiers 80+ years ago had to endure. Minus the rifle, pack, being shot at, etc.... The path to the top was (badly) damaged in June 2001 by landslides and glaciers (almost) blocking the way. It was do-able however and the experience is rewarding. To prove you did it the '6a' way take pictures of the Austro-Hungarian trench with concrete loopholes, the concrete shelter and the memorial plate to Galeriestellung Piano III.

Monte Piano looking non-inviting at dawn.
Viewed from Lago di Landro (Durrensee).

In 1914 the border between Austria and Italy ran along the mountain which, as Pasubio, consists of a plateau (Forcella dei Castrati) and two peaks (North and South). On May 24th 1915 the Italians after their declaration of war the previous day overran the Austrian positions on the North peak. Austrian artillery and positions further on prevented an Italian breakthrough to the bounty 12 km onwards: Toblach. On June 7th two groups of Kaiserschützen of Regiment No. III attacked the mountain. One group took a northern route, one group came from Schluderbach (as you did). They were able to conquer the mountain but were ordered to retreat on the northern peak A stable situation developed in where the Italians held the South and the Austro-Hungarians the North peak, the lines coming close together on the Forcella dei Castrati.

From the first days of the war on there was continuous fighting for the mountain with both sides building their defenses. This mountain, as the others, were soaked in blood. On Piano most offenses were started by the Italians, with both sides paying heavily.

Austro-Hungarian sniper plates looking out over
no man's land (Forcella dei Castrati).

On the top are numerous memorials. In the Italian zone are for example the Angelo Bosi memorial (55th R.I.), the Alpini memorial, the 1922 Iron memorial cross to the 55th R.I., the Lt. Ruggero de Simone (medaglia d'Oro recipient) memorial.

Austro-Hungarian frontline trench.
As on the Western Front it's noticeable
that the trenches of the Central Powers are
better constructed and therefore better preserved.

Get back to Schluderbach and on the S51 towards Dobbiaco. Half way between these two places you will see the Austro-Hungarian cemetery of Torblach or Naßwand (follow link) on your left. If you have enough light left it's worth a visit. Continue towards Dobbiaco and there turn right on the S49 towards Austria. In Austria this road becomes the 100. Follow this road to Lienz and continue on the 100. At Oberdrauburg take the 110 to Mauthen and there take the 111 to Hermagor and your hotel.

Base camp #4: Hermagor, day 12-13
On day 12 take the 111 towards Mauthen. At Dellach follow the signs 'Heldenfriedhof' (follow link). Return to the 111 and continue to Mauthen. In the Town Hall of Mauthen is the excellent Museum 1915-18 (Mo-Fr 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-18:00, Sa-Su 14:00-18:00). As far as full size displays is concerned this is the best museum described in this article.

This museum has some good German books on sale. It is recommended that you at least buy the leaflet FREILICHTMUEUM DES GEBIRGSKRIEGES 1915-1918 PLÖCKENPAß. The descriptions and the simple map will be of much use the next few hours.

From Mauthen take the 110 towards the Plöckenpass (Italy). Just before the border you will see an Austro-Hungarian Cemetery on your left (follow link). Continue towards the border and our next destination the Pal Piccolo (Little Pal) mountain. Cross the border and park your car at the large parking there. On the parking is a memorial to Giovanni Macchi killed on Pal Piccolo. Facing the border you will see a wooden sign on your right. Follow this path (Alpini weg - b) to the top of the mountain. On the way you you will see several WW1 remains. Among them what seems to be an original sign on a collapsed concrete building reading "IIIº ALPINI ?????? 224 COMP 1916." Near the top is again a memorial to Giovanni Macchi. He was killed on June 14th, 1915 when the Austrians attacked the Pal Piccolo. The positions on the Pal Piccolo have been restored by the Dolomitenfreunde.

In 1866 the Plöckenpaß became the border between Austria and Italy. It is the only pass in the Karnische Alps and therefore an important route for invasion. When Italy declared war on Austria on May 23rd 1915 the Plöckenpaß instantly became one of the most important battlefields. The Italians started their attack in the morning of May 24th, 1915. The Austrian main position became the old Plöckenhaus infantry fortifications while the Italians occupied the Pal Piccolo and Cellon mountain on both sides of the pass.

On June 14th, 1915 the Austrians attacked. Sources differ, some speak of the fact that the Austrians conquered the Little Piccolo completely with the enemies facing each other on the Big Pal, others state that the Little Pal itself became the frontline. What is clear that these mountains remained a much fought over piece of land in 1915 and 1916. Autumn 1917 saw the Italians abandon their positions here due to the successful Austro-Hungarian / German offensive on the Isonzo.

It is possible to walk from the top of Pal Piccolo down to the MG Nase. The MG Nase contains many Austrian infantry fortifications. This path (weg A) starts from the cliff shown above and was badly signposted in 2001. The path is very steep however and it will mean that you will end up on the 111 on the Austrian side of the border and that you will have to walk a distance along the 111 back to your car. The preferred option is to return as you came. Take your car past the border and straight after the border (before entering the tunnel) keep to your right. You will end up on a small parking from where a 90 min. return trip to the MG Nase can be made. See the leaflet you bought. This walk will show you the original positions held by the Austrians after the Itlian attack May 24th, 1915.

An other walk that starts from the Austrian parking place on the border is to the Cellonstollen (not done by us). In 1916 the Italians made a successful attack on the on the Cellon Mountain (opposite the Pal Piccolo on the other side of the Plöckenpaß). Each way to the top was now being covered by the Italians. The Austrian reply was to build a 250 meters long tunnel which ascended 117 meters. You can travel through this tunnel (Cellenstollen) but you will need mountain climbing gear.

On day 13 leave Hermagor on the 111 towards Villach. Junction 364 is used to get on the E55 towards Udine. After the border the E55 becomes the A23. After Udine head for Trieste on the A4. Leave the A4 at junction Redipuglia direction Redipuglia (S305). Follow the signs for the Sacrari Militari Redipuglia (follow link). This is part of the famous Isonzo battlefield (named after the river Isonzo). The battlefield of the Isonzo battles is roughly between Duino (south on the Adriatic) - Görz (now Gorizia and Novo Gorica) - Tolmein (Slovenia).

Battle	Started	Ended appr.	Initiated by
1st	23-06-1915	07-07-1915	Italy
2nd	18-07-1915	10-08-1915	Italy
3rd	18-10-1915	14-12-1915	Italy
4th	10-11-1915	14-12-1915	Italy
5th	11-03-1916	16-03-1916	Italy
6th	04-08-1916	16-08-1916	Italy
7th	14-09-1916	17-09-1916	Italy
8th	09-10-1916	12-10-1916	Italy
9th	31-10-1916	04-11-1916	Italy
10th	12-05-1917	05-06-1917	Italy
11th	18-08-1917	01-09-1917	Italy
12th	24-10-1917	10-11-1917	Austria-Hungary / Germany

These were not small affairs either. In the 10th Isonzo Battle 36 Italian Divisions took part. In the 11th 52. Compare this to the 17 British Divisions that attacked on the Somme July 1st, 1916. Heinz von Lichem in his excellent series GEBIRGSKRIEG 1915-1918 calls in BAND 3 : KARNISCHE UND JULISCHE ALPEN, MONTE GRAPPA, PIAVE-ISONZO. 1982/1997, Athesia the 11th Battle of Isonzo the "Austro-Hungarian Verdun".

Also an interesting read is the manuscript by Hans Pölzer (1894-1917) published in 1993 under the title DREI TAGE AM ISONZO. Pölzer was an Austrian NCO in the Feldjägerbataillons Nr. 9. The manuscript was written in 1916 and describes his experiences in the 4th battle of Isonzo where he was wounded. He was killed in the 12th battle of Isonzo. Noticeable are his admiration for the shooting abilities of the Italians, who are excellent snipers. Not strange he figures because each Italian man grabs a hunting rifle each winter to hunt birds that migrate to Africa. His hate is reserved for his allies, the Hungarians. Described as less then useless. The book describes an event in where an empty, returning, horse-drawn transport overtakes a colony of wounded Feldjägers. Pölzer tells the wounded to hitch a ride in the empty cars, which is refused by the Hungarian leader of the convoy. When Pölzer tells them to get in the cars anyway the Hungarian driver uses his whip on the wounded. Pölzer in a fit of rage wrestles the whip from the driver, beats him with it until it becomes entangled in a tree and then keeps hitting and kicking the man until he is unconscious.

After your visit to the cemetery, memorials and museums of Redipuglia continue on the S305. At the junction with the S351 turn right on the S351 towards Gradiscaudls. There follow the signs to Monte San Michele (274 m).

This mountain (or hill) was Austro-Hungarian territory. During the 2nd Isonzo battle it was heavily fought over. The Italians managed to conquer it, but had to abandon it shortly after in a heavy counterattack by the Austro-Hungarians. Fought over during the other Isonzo battles as well the mountain was finally taken by the Italians during the 6th Isonzo Battle (August 1916). Only to lose it again during the 12th Isonzo Battle (October 1917).

There is a very small museum/exhibition on top of the mountain, which can be reached by car. There are several memorials around the car park. The paths lead to interesting positions and trenches. The whole mountain is a maze of tunnels and caves, some of which are adapted to fit artillery pieces. These Italian positions are natural bunkers facing what is now Slovenia and look like the bunkers you can find in Normandy (WW2). Noteworthy is one of the few Austro-Hungarian memorials here. It's near the radio tower and it is a memorial to Infantry Regiment 'Graf von Khevenhüller #7' for the 4th Isonzo Battle, November 1915.

Gassed soldiers on San Michelle, 1916.
Picture from the book:
Kozlovic, A. STORIA FOTOGRAFICA DELLA GRANDE GUERRA.
1986, Gino Rossato Editore.

If time permits you can visit the memorial and ossuary north of Gorizia (not visited by us). A lot of what was the Isonzo front is now in Slovenia. We did not venture there. Most (if not all) of the mountains on your map in this region have WW1 remains on them: Krn, Kuk , etc.

The 12th Isonzo Battle (24-10-1917) saw Austro-Hungarian and German Troops do what the Italians had tried 11 times before that: they broke through the enemy lines. The Italian army didn't retreat but it routed. It is estimated that the Italians lost one million men in this attack. Most of them Prisoners of War. The Central Powers chased the Italians all the way to the river Piave.

Get back on the S305 and the A4 and head towards Trieste. During the war Trieste was a base for Austrian waterplanes which attacked Venice. The Italians returned the compliment. This fighting is superbly described by Peter Kilduff in chapter 1 (The Eagle of Trieste) and chapter 5 (Warrior Poet of the Air) of his book OVER THE BATTLEFRONTS – AMAZING AIR ACTION OF WORLD WAR ONE. 1996, Arms & Armour. Personally we weren't very taken by Trieste. Triest means 'sad' in Dutch and we thought it apply named. Noisy, old, dirty and smelly with a $150 / night hotel without a bar. But tastes differ....

On day 14 take the A4 in the direction of Venice. Keep an eye on your car's distant counter: from Monfalcone to the Piave river was the length of the area captured by the Central Powers during the 12th Isonzo Battle. On this road you will cross the Piave river at Noventa di Piave. As said during the 12th Isonzo battle the central Powers had chased the Italians towards the Piave river. There was no real Italian defense line left and victory was in the air. And then the Austro-Hungarians High Command stopped the attack for 14 days.... The Italians call it 'the miracle of Caporetto', but it would be better termed as 'the stupidity of the Austro-Hungarians'. During the 14 days respite a defence line was hastily built with the help of British and French troops on the west bank of the Piave river. To this day nobody knows why the Austro-Hungarians stopped. The Germans were so disgusted that they withdrew most of their divisions from this front. It is a very likely scenario that if they had pressed on the Italians would have completely collapsed and would have capitulated. Then a mass of German and Austro-Hungarian troops would have been freed for use in the March 1918 offensive in France. The war could have had a completely different outcome had that happened. It became relatively quiet on the Piave during the end of 1917 with both sides digging in.

Just before Venice take the A27 direction Treviso. Take junction Treviso Nord towards Treviso. Turn right on the S13 towards Visnadello. Continue until you see signs for the S248 to Nervessa della Battaglia. Follow the signs for the Sacrari Militari di Montello (follow link).

On June 1918 the Austro-Hungarians launched what would be their last big attack. The managed to cross the Piave and occupy the west bank. But process was slow and the Italian, British and French defense stubborn, well thought out, and backed up by 7000 artillery pieces. The Allies were waiting. The Austro-Hungarians had 140,000 casualties and the attack lost momentum. The Allies were able to throw the Austro-Hungarians back to the east bank. For several months the Allies waited, their Armies growing with men and material while the Austro-Hungarians, low on material, men and provisions, rotted away on the east bank. During October 1918 the Allies attached and drove the Austro-Hungarians back in disarray. Austro-Hungary capitulated on November 4th, 1918.

Coming up to the Sacrari Militari di Montello you will have seen signs to the memorial Baracca. Follow these. Francesco Baracca was a pilot and is a national hero. The emblem of his unit may look familiar. The Baracca family were friends of the Ferrari family. As a sign of respect Ferrari took the emblem of Baracca's unit for his company. The only change he made was that he turned the tail of the horse upwards.

Get back on the S248 direction Montebelluna. Follow the signs to Giavera. Near the church is Giavera British Cemetery (follow link). This cemetery is rated as the most beautiful one we visited on our trip. Also notable was that in 2001 it contained an original 2nd edition register. We think it dated from the 1920's. We have never seen one of those in France and Belgium. There it is the more modern green softcover book or nowadays even the A4 printout. We do not think it's coincidence that this register is still there in fairly good shape and that this cemetery is so off the beaten track. The Cemeteries at Asiago receive more visitors and they didn't have such and old register. We feel this confirms our believe that vandalism and especially theft of cemetery registers isn't done by locals but by battlefield visitors. The visit to Giavera concluded our holiday and the description of this tour.

If your holiday isn't over yet it's a good idea to drive from Giavera towards Monte Grappa. And then..... I'm afraid we could go on and on....

We headed back on motorways to Munich, arriving late in the evening. Day 15 was spent at the Deutsches Museum in Munich which has some nice WW1 aircraft on display and a chilling visit to Dachau concentration camp.

Italy and the Great War: A travel Guide (part 1)

Italy and the Great War:
A travel Guide (part 1)